Each winter, the Montreal High Lights Festival – known in French as Montréal en Lumière – transforms the Quartier des Spectacles district into a vibrant crossroads of art, illumination, and gastronomy. Since its founding in 2000, the festival has grown into one of the world’s largest winter celebrations, drawing acclaimed chefs and bons vivants to the city’s icy heart.
For its 27th edition, held from February 20 to March 7, the gastronomic programming once again commanded attention. Among the most anticipated of Air France’s Finest Tables was an ephemeral two-evening Chef’s Counter tasting menu at Marcus Restaurant + Terrace, located on the third floor of the Four Seasons Hotel Montreal. On February 25 and 26 only, a select group of guests gathered at the heart of the kitchen for a special dinner collaboration.
An Intimate Chef’s Counter Experience
Marcus Executive Chef Jason Morris welcomed Mads Refslund, chef and founder of ILIS in New York City, for a 10-course tasting menu designed as a creative dialogue between Nordic and Canadian perspectives.
Seating was structurally limited to ten, with only two evening services at 6 pm and 8 pm. The exclusivity shaped the atmosphere. Guests sat steps from the pass, observing every motion, every plating decision, every final touch.
The menu, with an optional wine pairing curated and served by chef sommelier Alexandra Guay, unfolded like clockwork. The experience felt immersive and focused. Conversation flowed between the chefs and guests, reinforcing the sense of collaboration.
The Menu : Precision and Purity
The tasting began with navet et karasumi, a study in saline intensity and root vegetable sweetness. Turnip provided a clean, crisp base while the cured roe delivered depth and umami. Pétoncle vivant, thon et moule followed, presenting live scallop, tuna, and mussel in a composition that highlighted freshness and texture.
Flanc aux huîtres arrived as a delicate oyster custard, silky and mineral. Crucifères et sésame brought earthy greens into balance with nutty undertones.
Patate douce et caviar offered warmth and luxury in equal measure, the sweet potato’s softness meeting briny pearls.
Ormeau, celtuce et champignon king showcased abalone with lettuce, served on a thick placemat made with restaurant compost and king mushrooms, while canard et hibiscus presented the most tender slices of duck meat.
The threefold dessert began with carottes et fanes, a delightful bowl of frozen shredded orange, yellow, plum, and green carrots atop yogurt and caramel. Next kumquat et lait salé, balanced citrus brightness with gentle salinity before concluding with refined mignardises. Each course reinforced the chefs’ shared commitment to ingredient-driven cooking for gastronomic connaisseurs.
The Chefs Behind the Collaboration
Jason Morris, born in Montreal, began his career as a poissonnier before studying at the Institut de Tourisme et d’Hôtellerie du Québec. After formative years in New York with Paul Liebrandt, he returned home to lead Marcus. Recognized among Canada’s Top 10 Chefs, Morris champions local sourcing and meticulous technique within the sophisticated setting of the Four Seasons Hotel Montreal.
Mads Refslund brings international resonance. The Danish-born chef co-founded Noma in Copenhagen, helping shape New Nordic cuisine. His later ventures included the Michelin starred MR and ACME in New York. In 2023, he opened ILIS in Brooklyn, guided by a philosophy he calls bonding rawness, centered on purity, sustainability, and respect for nature.
A Defining Moment for Montréal en Lumière
This Chef’s Counter special dinner collaboration embodied the spirit of the Montréal en Lumière festival. It united global talent and local excellence within an atmosphere of warmth and creativity. The proximity to the chefs, the clarity of flavors, and the thoughtful pacing defined the evening.
As snow settled outside and the night lights shimmered across downtown Montreal, Marcus Restaurant at the Four Seasons Hotel offered an experience rooted in craft and connection. For those fortunate enough to secure a seat, such as my lovely dinner companion and myself, the tasting menu experience stood as one of the festival’s most luminous culinary moments.
